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    April 01

    关于镶嵌宝石的金属

         最近有不少朋友问我用什么金属做镶嵌比较好?18K金用久会不会掉色?

        18K金是我们常见的一种首饰用金属,含金(黄金)量为75%,25%其他的金属。在黄金比例固定的情况下,添加其他的金属,如钯等,在保持黄金延展性的同时可以增加黄金的硬度,更适合镶嵌。18K金的本色是有点发褐的金属色,做好款型后,在镶嵌之前都要再镀一层在表面,镀层是什么颜色的,就叫什么颜色的金了,如白色的叫18K白金(规范的称呼为白18K金),黄的叫18K黄金,粉的叫18K玫瑰金。镀层的颜色是通过添加其他的有色金属来实现的,如玫瑰金就是添加了铜。

     

                                                             右边是18K金的本色,左边是镀了白金之后的颜色。
     
        由此看来,18K金佩戴一段时间镀层磨损之后的确是颜色可能改变的,不过变化不会太大,仅仅是有点发褐及亮度降低。
        其他常见的镶嵌金属有:
        铂金:一般分PT900,PT950,部分地区有PT850。PT950是含95%铂金和含5%铑、钯等贵金属的合金;PT900是含90%铂金和含10%铑、钯等贵金属的合金,PT850以此类推。铂金的价格也是所有的镶嵌金属中最贵的。
        提示:18K白金可不是含75%的铂金,而是黄金。
        钯金:多为Pd950,材料比较轻,价格相对比较便宜,但时间长了容易发黑。
        银:S925表示纯银含量为92.5%,俗称为纹银。银容易被氧化变黑,因此首饰用的银常在外面镀一层白金。常用来镶嵌一些价值较低的宝石。
        18GP是铜等廉价金属镀18K金,一般镶嵌一些假宝石或者其他的廉价宝石。
     

                                                              玫瑰金镶嵌的钻石耳钉
          说到最后,至于用什么金属做镶嵌,那就要看要镶嵌的宝石的价值及各自的经济能力,如果较贵重的宝石还是推荐用铂金或者K金,否则也会降低首饰的价值。

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